23/04 Mein Gott

(my God, my God. You are in heaven, we are in grotto.)

I spent the Easter weekend in Chiavenna. A beautiful little town in the mountains, the Alps to be specific. It’s Luca’s home town. We went to visit his parents, who don’t speak a word of English. It was great, Luca reluctantly played translator as his mom and I formed and alliance against unruly boys. Haha.

Although I am fully aware of the ‘awesomness’ of living in Venice, my soul has been taking strain. Chiavenna was just the dose I needed to recharge and change my perspective. It’s nestled in this lush valley with just enough urban so as not to feel like you’re stuck in rural nowhere. The minute I got off the train (from Milan) I new something was different here. Something agreed with me and I felt fantastic!

I also had the opportunity to appreciate why all the fuss about the Italian Motto Grazzi. This fire engine red beast is Luca’s baby and he jumps at any chance to play. As result I had no choice but to hop on the back of this terrifying machine if I wished not to be stranded. Wow, I finally get it. Big bikes are super cool!

So, I met a bunch of Luca’s friends. They’ve all known each other since they were in nappies, so the company was easy and familiar, though not a word of English spoken. My Italian comprehension has improved dramatically, even though I still don’t speak much. In particular there was a guy, Rizzi, who I really enjoyed. And his dog, Tsizzi. Hopefully he will come to Venice next month, if he can get off work.

Saturday night we went to the grotto! Wow, this is something you gotta see. Nestled in a natural conservation area, there are about a hundred grotto’s built against the side of the mountain. They’re kind of like our lapas, but enclosed. A single room affair intended for gathering with friends around a fire. The back wall is the rock of the mountain where a crevice has formed deep into the rock and often a trickle of water runs down. The amazing thing about it is as result of the particular construction and position, each grotto remains at a constant 16*C, winter, summer, rain or shine! It was fabulous. The fire, wine and gathering of friends was something so powerful that for a moment I felt transported home. Not home Joburg, home. But home, where your heart is happy, home. Like when you suddenly stop whilst hiking and are intensely aware of the power and beauty surrounding you. I was so happy and content a tear came to my eye!

On Sunday, we went up to Madesimo, to see Luca’s family shop and grab some lunch and sooth our hangovers. The place is 2000m above sea level and a half an hour drive, vertically from Chiavenna, along winding roads and terrifyingly steep mountain passes. I was completely unprepared for the change! There was snow and ice everywhere! What a contrast, we went from summer to winter, 21*C to 4*C in a half an hour!

I saw Caterina too. She also lives in Chiavenna, and has been locked up at home for 2 weeks with bronchitis or something. She finally surfaced and we met on Monday afternoon to go to the waterfall. Absolutely stunning. My first thought was, ‘what a party we could have here!’ Her mom came too as she is studying English and didn’t want to miss the opportunity to speak to me and practice her skills. Olivia, the dog, came too.

And what of Venice?

I came back to a different city! The sun was shining… hot. People were smiling, and it felt good to be home. Home… Venice.